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By Parrothead
I hope this thread will help you sort out what it may cost you to install a good starter solar array in Cambodia.
First, the visual aid.
(It always helps to have an idea as to what you will have once it is installed.)
Primary parts (most viewable in the image above):
4 each - 100 watts Just Solar panels - $540 ($135 x 4)
1 each - MorningStar ProStar 30m controller - $250
1 each - MNPV4-MC4 Pre-Wired Combiner with fuse holders - $155 (the combiner comes with 15 amp fuses, but 10 ampere rating is what is needed here.)
8 each - Midnite Solar MNFUSE High Voltage Fuses (10 amp) - $25.00 (four to use, and four spares)
2 each - DB Link MANLFH1 Mini ANL Fuse Holder - $12.18 ($6.09 x 2)
1 each - Install Bay MANL50 - 50 Amp Mini ANL Fuses (2 Pack) - $4.95
1 each - Positive Insulated Battery Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 (Red) - $5.49
1 each - Negative Insulated Battery Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 (Black) - $5.49
1 each - 10' (3 meters) grounding rod with clamp - $20.00 USD
2 each - Yuasa EB-130 Deep Cycle flooded batteries - $240 ($120 x 2) Battery maintenance advice webpage
4 each - MC4 Extension Cables (length varies from panels to combiner) MC4 Informational link
Subtotal of $1,258.11 - not including the MC4 extension cables needed, for your primary parts.
NOTE: If you have a combiner box that is not prewired, you can buy individual cables, double the length you need, and cut them in half. You can then connect the MC4s to the ones coming from the panels, and trim the opposite (cut) ends to wire directly into the panel bus bars / fuse holders / breakers.
Electric Materials List (~$100.00):
#6 AWG stranded - red
#6 AWG stranded - black
#6 AWG solid - green
#10 AWG stranded - red - if you do not use MC4 extension cables
#10 AWG stranded - black- if you do not use MC4 extension cables
20-22 AWG stranded two conductor - red / black or brown / black
3/8" insulated terminals for #6 AWG wire
Various mounting hardware
Electric tape - red & black
Wire wraps / Cable ties (poly)
Maintenance Materials List (~$10.00):
1 each - specific gravity tester
6 each - One Liter bottles de-ionized / distilled water
Tools List (cost will vary, depending on what you need):
Drill motor
Drill bits
combination wrenches
Allen wrenches
Wire crimpers
Wire strippers
Electrical lineman's pliars
Side cutter pliars
Hand screw driver set
Micro screw driver set
PV-MS Disconnect Tool Set - $9.00
Meters (~$100.00):
Clamp on DC Ammeter
Digital multimeter
Rough estimate for all materials and parts, if you have your own tools, thus far, is $1,468.11. This is not including the MC4 extension cables needed.
Personal Note: While I like the MorningStar controllers I have, I am very disappointed in MorningStar's customer service, especially when ringing them on my dime from half way around the world. They will be the first two, and the last two that I ever purchase from them. From now on, it will be Midnite Solar, Inc., for controllers.
Keep the generator and a 20 to 30 ampere battery charger for days when the clouds in the sky are blocking the suns rays from hitting your panels, and you will be cookin' with gas - errrr sun.
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By Strider167
Solar Panel Temperature Affects Output – Here's what you need to know
Solar panel temperature is one of the important factors that affects how much electricity your panels will produce. It's ironic – but the more sunshine you get, the hotter the panels get and this in turns counteracts the benefit of the sun.
In some cases the heat factor can reduce your output by 10% to 25% depending on your specific location.
Of course, not all solar panels are affected by heat equally and luckily some do much better at coping with the heat than others. Here's what you need to know.
If you look at the manufacturer's data sheet you will see a term called "temperature coefficient Pmax". For example the temperature coefficient of a Suntech 190 W (monocrystalline) solar panel is –0.48%. What this means is that for each degree over 25˚C … the maximum power of the panel is reduced by 0.48%.
So on a hot day in the summer – where solar panel temperature on the roof might reach 45˚C or so – the amount of electricity would be 10% lower.
Conversely, on a sunny day in the Spring, fall, or even winter – when temperatures are lower than 25˚C – the amount of electricity produced would actually increase above the maximum rated level.
Therefore, in most northern climates – the days above and below 25˚C would tend to balance each other out. However, in locations closer to the equator the problems of heat loss could become substantial over the full year and warrant looking at alternatives.
Note:For those of you who want to use their solar panels to charge their RV or boat batteries – you'll will need to make sure that the voltage produced by your panel (under high heat scenarios) will be sufficient to recharge your battery – so it's best to order higher voltage solar panels to offset the temperature losses – and also keep the panels clean for maximum output.
Some Solar Cells Respond to Temperature Changes Better than OthersThe solar panel temperature affects the maximum power output directly. As solar panel temperature increases, its output current increases exponentially while the voltage output is reduced linearly. Since power is equal to voltage times current this property means that the warmer the solar panel the less power it can produce. The power loss due to temperature is also dependent on the type of solar panel being used.
Typically, solar panels based on monocrystalline and polycrystalline solar cells will have a temperature coefficient in the –0.44% to -.50% range.
Amporphous Silicon does a bit better. For example, the Sanyo HIT hybrid cells and bifacial cells, which consist of a layer of monocrystalline silicon covered with a thin coating of amorphouse silicon have a lower temperature coefficient of –0.34% - making them another good choice for people looking for high efficiency solar panels in areas closer to the equator.
The best so far in terms of dealing with high temperatures are the Cadmium Telluride solar panels – with a temperature coefficient of –0.25%. However, while they are good with dealing with temperature changes – they are not as efficient at converting sunlight into electricity.
Newer technologies such as CIGS and some of the 4th generation solar cell technologies being developed show show promise of also being less affected by the temperature – but we have to wait until their datasheets are published to know for sure.
Possible Solutions?Because of the problem of loss of electricity as a result of heat buildup – most installers make sure it is possible for air to flow above and below the solar panels to help keep them cool.
-Try to use light colors under the panels.
-Stay away from black back panels.
-Water cooling - Run your potable water under the panel (maybe in line with solar hot water system) with a heat exchanger.
Keep the lights on
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By Strider167
What is the difference between Monocrystalline, Polycrystalline, and Thin Film Solar Panels?
With all the different types of solar panels out there, it can be confusing determining which type of panel is best. Here is a brief rundown of the types:
Monocrystalline: A monocrystalline cell (AKA: Single Crystal Cell) is the most efficient of the available panel types. The type of silicon cell is determined by the process in which they are created. A silicon ingot is drawn slowly from a molten vat, using a process called the Czochralski method. This is what makes the silicon monocrystalline. Without getting into too much chemistry, an almost perfect lattice is formed on the atomic level which allows the electrons to pass through with little or no interference, giving the mono cells the highest efficiency. Once the ingot is formed, it is sliced into a series of thin wafers which are the substrate of the solar cell. Mono panels typically have an efficiency of 15-17%. The highest of efficiency monocrystalline panels readily available to the public is about 20%. The main downside is due to the process of manufacturing the wafers, the cost can be expensive.
Polycrystalline: Similar to mono’s, polycrystalline cells are still made from silicon, but the process differs. Instead of the long, arduous, expensive process of creating a single crystal solar cell (where the ingot is drawn slowly from a vat), the molten silicon is poured into a cast and cooled with a seed crystal (a piece of crystalline material used to grow a larger crystal). Unlike the mono atomic structure, the casting method doesnt create uniform lattices, hence bringing the overall efficiency down. Polycrystalline panels are typically 12-14% efficient.
Amorphous/Thin Film: Thin Film solar panels are the least efficient of the 3 types, coming in anywhere from 6-8%. The panels are made using a CVD process (chemical vapor deposition). The silicon is deposited typically on glass, however the atomic lattice structure is anything but organized. While this leads to better performance in low light and higher ambient temperatures, it also greatly reduces the cell efficiency.
So, you should always buy mono right? Am I wasting my money with lower efficiency panels?
NO. This is the biggest misconception in the solar industry. $/watt is $/watt. That’s it. While you may need almost twice the space for a thin film array to get the same wattage of a monocrystalline array, the cost per watt is what really matters
If I buy a 20,000W solar system, and i pay $1.00/watt for the panels, i am getting 20,000W of power for $20,000. It doesn’t matter if its thin film, mono, or poly. You are getting the exact same amount of power. The only difference will be the physical size of the array.
What would I recommend:
Buy what works best for your situation. If you have the space and money is an issue, buy the best available deals out there right now. Really you’re paying for watts of power, that’s it.
I would also mention that thin film really should be lumped in its own category as its efficiency and cost is usually much lower than mono/poly. The difference between mono and poly in my opinion is negligible and can almost always be substituted for one another unless you are literally counting the millimeters and watts for your array. Thin film is ideal for low cost systems with no space limitations.
Keep the lights on
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By Parrothead
1. Load this page.
2. Up top left, click to have it detect your location.
3. You can then choose the date and time you wish to calculate the sun's position over your location.
Here is the tracker for the farm on the 21st of March, 2014, at noon.
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By Parrothead
How to Build a Solar Panel - Part 1 of 3
http://youtu.be/_2UxOY_wpFo
How to Build a Solar Panel - Part 2 of 3
http://youtu.be/EEOBYulZ_fI
How to Build a Solar Panel - Part 3 of 3
http://youtu.be/6mdBnIt0xIQ
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