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  1. Living in Southeast Asia, one of the things that tend be "normal", dependent upon the area you reside in, is power cuts. In Cambodia, that pretty well seems to be just about everywhere, with the exception of jails and prisons, which seem to never have mains failures. As some here may already know, just over a year ago, I purchased my first Honda EU-20i Inverter Generator. (The model similar to the EU-2000i, which is sold in the US. The 20i models offer different AC output voltage, than the 2000i units in the US. 230vac, rather than 115vac.) Anyway, I just checked the output, for the first time in a while. No better time than when mains power is down, I say. It is generating 230vac, at 50hz, right on the money. Honda quality, for sure. The generator's output voltage is cleaner and definitely stable, unlike the mains voltage coming in from the power grid. When I test it, the mains voltage comes in anywhere from 200 to 247 volts. The cycles have varied from about 47 to 54, as far as I have seen to date. I am happy that modern appliances can handle power from the grid that isn't quite, up to snuff. I'm much happier that I can hear myself think, while my generator sits just outside the window, quietly sipping fuel like a Jack & Coke, rather than sounding like a screaming banshee and sucking down petrol at a rate of four liters per hour. You see, the little Honda Inverter has an "ECO" mode, which allows it to automatically adjust its output, dependent upon the load it automatically detects. So, it runs quiet under a lesser load; louder under a heavier load. The load comes in at 1.0 amperes, exactly. So, 230 watts is what it is providing for the apartment. That is with 2 fans running, as well as various lighting, a Samsung Inverter Refrigerator, and two UPS units powering a modem / router, a desktop computer, a large (32") monitor, and a computer speaker system. 230w (current power needs) / 1600w (continuously rated output) = 14% load. Heck, it may run 12 or more hours, on a single tank of fuel. While the little guy will not power heavy draw appliances like a water heater, a kettle, an oven, or the (old style) air-con compressor, it will run everything else in the apartment. At the farm, the same sized generator powers a number of lights (at least three-hundred watts currently, I'm sure) - both inside and property perimeter, fans, a water pump, another Samsung Inverter Refrigerator, and my UPS which powers the network modem, computer, speaker system, and a monitor. 2,000 watts may not seem like much when it comes to a generator. But, for the "bang for the buck" I get by having the insurance, I have zero complaints. If anyone is interested, last years price, anyway, was $888 USD per generator, out the door. An oil change will take 40 centiliters (~13.50 oz) of fresh oil. The petrol tank has a capacity of 3.6 Liters (~.95 gal). I am not sure of the total run time. Probably no more than about 4 or 5 hours at full throttle, I would guess. But, imagine it will run about 8 to 10 hours at the current load I have on it. I have to say, whether here or at the farm, life is much better, knowing you have alternative energy sources available. Sitting in this kind of heat with no air circulating whatsoever? That would be a major drag.
  2. Solar Panel Temperature Affects Output – Here's what you need to know Solar panel temperature is one of the important factors that affects how much electricity your panels will produce. It's ironic – but the more sunshine you get, the hotter the panels get and this in turns counteracts the benefit of the sun. In some cases the heat factor can reduce your output by 10% to 25% depending on your specific location. Of course, not all solar panels are affected by heat equally and luckily some do much better at coping with the heat than others. Here's what you need to know. If you look at the manufacturer's data sheet you will see a term called "temperature coefficient Pmax". For example the temperature coefficient of a Suntech 190 W (monocrystalline) solar panel is –0.48%. What this means is that for each degree over 25˚C … the maximum power of the panel is reduced by 0.48%. So on a hot day in the summer – where solar panel temperature on the roof might reach 45˚C or so – the amount of electricity would be 10% lower. Conversely, on a sunny day in the Spring, fall, or even winter – when temperatures are lower than 25˚C – the amount of electricity produced would actually increase above the maximum rated level. Therefore, in most northern climates – the days above and below 25˚C would tend to balance each other out. However, in locations closer to the equator the problems of heat loss could become substantial over the full year and warrant looking at alternatives. Note:For those of you who want to use their solar panels to charge their RV or boat batteries – you'll will need to make sure that the voltage produced by your panel (under high heat scenarios) will be sufficient to recharge your battery – so it's best to order higher voltage solar panels to offset the temperature losses – and also keep the panels clean for maximum output. Some Solar Cells Respond to Temperature Changes Better than OthersThe solar panel temperature affects the maximum power output directly. As solar panel temperature increases, its output current increases exponentially while the voltage output is reduced linearly. Since power is equal to voltage times current this property means that the warmer the solar panel the less power it can produce. The power loss due to temperature is also dependent on the type of solar panel being used. Typically, solar panels based on monocrystalline and polycrystalline solar cells will have a temperature coefficient in the –0.44% to -.50% range. Amporphous Silicon does a bit better. For example, the Sanyo HIT hybrid cells and bifacial cells, which consist of a layer of monocrystalline silicon covered with a thin coating of amorphouse silicon have a lower temperature coefficient of –0.34% - making them another good choice for people looking for high efficiency solar panels in areas closer to the equator. The best so far in terms of dealing with high temperatures are the Cadmium Telluride solar panels – with a temperature coefficient of –0.25%. However, while they are good with dealing with temperature changes – they are not as efficient at converting sunlight into electricity. Newer technologies such as CIGS and some of the 4th generation solar cell technologies being developed show show promise of also being less affected by the temperature – but we have to wait until their datasheets are published to know for sure. Possible Solutions?Because of the problem of loss of electricity as a result of heat buildup – most installers make sure it is possible for air to flow above and below the solar panels to help keep them cool. -Try to use light colors under the panels. -Stay away from black back panels. -Water cooling - Run your potable water under the panel (maybe in line with solar hot water system) with a heat exchanger. Keep the lights on
  3. What is the difference between Monocrystalline, Polycrystalline, and Thin Film Solar Panels? With all the different types of solar panels out there, it can be confusing determining which type of panel is best. Here is a brief rundown of the types: Monocrystalline: A monocrystalline cell (AKA: Single Crystal Cell) is the most efficient of the available panel types. The type of silicon cell is determined by the process in which they are created. A silicon ingot is drawn slowly from a molten vat, using a process called the Czochralski method. This is what makes the silicon monocrystalline. Without getting into too much chemistry, an almost perfect lattice is formed on the atomic level which allows the electrons to pass through with little or no interference, giving the mono cells the highest efficiency. Once the ingot is formed, it is sliced into a series of thin wafers which are the substrate of the solar cell. Mono panels typically have an efficiency of 15-17%. The highest of efficiency monocrystalline panels readily available to the public is about 20%. The main downside is due to the process of manufacturing the wafers, the cost can be expensive. Polycrystalline: Similar to mono’s, polycrystalline cells are still made from silicon, but the process differs. Instead of the long, arduous, expensive process of creating a single crystal solar cell (where the ingot is drawn slowly from a vat), the molten silicon is poured into a cast and cooled with a seed crystal (a piece of crystalline material used to grow a larger crystal). Unlike the mono atomic structure, the casting method doesnt create uniform lattices, hence bringing the overall efficiency down. Polycrystalline panels are typically 12-14% efficient. Amorphous/Thin Film: Thin Film solar panels are the least efficient of the 3 types, coming in anywhere from 6-8%. The panels are made using a CVD process (chemical vapor deposition). The silicon is deposited typically on glass, however the atomic lattice structure is anything but organized. While this leads to better performance in low light and higher ambient temperatures, it also greatly reduces the cell efficiency. So, you should always buy mono right? Am I wasting my money with lower efficiency panels? NO. This is the biggest misconception in the solar industry. $/watt is $/watt. That’s it. While you may need almost twice the space for a thin film array to get the same wattage of a monocrystalline array, the cost per watt is what really matters If I buy a 20,000W solar system, and i pay $1.00/watt for the panels, i am getting 20,000W of power for $20,000. It doesn’t matter if its thin film, mono, or poly. You are getting the exact same amount of power. The only difference will be the physical size of the array. What would I recommend: Buy what works best for your situation. If you have the space and money is an issue, buy the best available deals out there right now. Really you’re paying for watts of power, that’s it. I would also mention that thin film really should be lumped in its own category as its efficiency and cost is usually much lower than mono/poly. The difference between mono and poly in my opinion is negligible and can almost always be substituted for one another unless you are literally counting the millimeters and watts for your array. Thin film is ideal for low cost systems with no space limitations. Keep the lights on
  4. Storage Batteries : the fuel tank of your solar power system Without batteries to store energy you would only have power when the sun was shining or the generator was running. This tutorial describes the 4 basic types of batteries & provides some good tips on the care & feeding of your batteries to maximize their performance and life. 1) RV or Marine type deep cycle batteries are basically for boats & campers and are suitable for only very small systems. They can be used but do not really have the capacity for continous service with many charge/discharge cycles for many years. Regular or Car type batteries should not be used at all because they cannot be discharged very much without internal damage. A very popular battery for small systems is the Golf Cart battery. They are somewhat more expensive than deep cycle recreational batteries but are probably the least expensive choice for a small system on a budget. (Also look at electric bike batteries) Industrial strength : Flooded, Gel, and AGM sealed batteries The next 3 types are the heavier industrial type batteries. They are all also considered Deep Cycle and are usually Lead Acid types with much thicker internal plates that can withstand many deep discharge cycles. These next 3 are all designed for alternative energy systems. 2) These are Lead acid batteries that have caps to add water. Many manufacturers make these types for Solar Energy use. Trojan, Surrette, and Deka are probably the most well known. They are reasonably priced and work well for many years. All flooded batteries release gas when charged and should not be used indoors. If installed in an enclosure, a venting system should be used to vent out the gases which can be explosive. 3) Not to be confused with maintenance free batteries, sealed gel batteries have no vents and will not release gas during the charging process like flooded batteries do. Venting is therefore not required and they can be used indoors. This is a big advantage because it allows the batteries to maintain a more constant temperature and perform better. 4) Absorbed Glass Mat batteries are in my opinion the best available for Solar Power use. A woven glass mat is used between the plates to hold the electrolyte. They are leak/spill proof, do not out gas when charging, and have superior performance. They have all the advantages of the sealed gel types and are higher quality, maintain voltage better, self discharge slower, and last longer. They are more expensive, but you usually get what you pay for. You will find this type of battery used in airplanes, hospitals, and remote telephone/cell tower installations. Care and Feeding As a technician, I used to say that if you are not comfortable, then neither is your equipment. I was mostly referring to temperature and humidity. In fact battery capacity ratings are usually specified at 77 degrees F or 25 degrees C. As batteries get colder their voltage drops and performance suffers. This is one major reason I prefer AGM batteries because they can be stored indoors where the temperatures vary less. Another important thing to consider is how deeply you discharge your batteries. This is known as the DOD (depth of discharge). In other words, how low you let the voltage drop before the next charge cycle. Most battery ratings talk about 50% or so, but they will last longer if you keep them as charged as possible. I like the 80% range. Lead acid batteries like to be fully charged. They will last much longer if you do not discharge them too deeply. This is known as shallow cycling and greatly extends their life. However, they can withstand discharges down to 20% or so, but I wouldn't do it too often. Next up is a post on Solar Panles. Keep the lights on.
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